All about saw tools

Take 10% Off all new Porter Cable Tools and Accessories.

2009-01-10T03:28:00.001-08:00

Changing blade on Dewalt XRP cordless circular saw DC390. Video guide.

2008-11-05T10:39:00.000-08:00

ATTENTION: Always be sure that the tool is switched off and the battery is removed before removing or installing the blade.

10% Off all new DeWalt Products

2008-11-03T14:56:00.001-08:00

New cordless handheld circular saws and cordless saber saws for professionals with 18-volt lithium-ion battery

2008-10-01T10:31:00.000-07:00

The new, compact Cordless Handheld Circular Saws GKS 18 V-LI Professional and Cordless Saber Saws GSA 18 V-LI Professional from Bosch offer maximum performance and mobility. The fully charged 18-volt Premium lithium-ion battery with 2.6 ampere hours provides sufficient energy to cut up to 50 chipboards (900 x19 millimeters) to length with the handheld circular saw, or to cut up to 100 spruce beams (100 x 100 millimeters) to length with the saber saw. Bosch has also designed both saws for long lifetime: the unique Electronic Motor Protection (EMP) from Bosch automatically shuts down the motor if it stalls, therefore preventing it from burning out.

The Handheld Circular Saw GKS 18 V-LI Professional with a 165-millimeter saw blade and a cutting depth of 52 millimeters is specially designed for the hard demands of skilled construction site workers such as carpenters, bricklayers or roofers, but also for exhibition fitters. It provides a clear view of the saw blade and score line. Precise cuts and good handling are ensured by the robust base plate, the softgrip coverings on both handles, the ergonomic design and the weight of only 4.1 kilograms.

The Saber Saw GSA 18 V-LI Professional offers two stroke speeds: 2,400 strokes per minute for metal and 2,700 strokes per minute for wood. With a maximum cutting length of 250 millimeters, it is ideal for electricians, gas fitters, plumbers, window fitters, carpenters and other skilled construction site workers. The ergonomic handle with softgrip and the weight of only 3.4 kilograms ensure easy working. The gear housing made of die-cast aluminum also makes the saber saw robust. The accelerator switch permits careful pilot sawing. Thanks to the SDS saw blade holder, the saw blades can be quickly replaced in just one movement.

Bosch Premium lithium-ion technology
The innovative Premium lithium-ion technology from Bosch with its unbeatable battery runtime and 400 percent longer lifetime is vastly superior to other battery technologies. The long lifetime is thanks to the Electronic Cell Protection (ECP) from Bosch. It reliably protects the battery against overload, overheating and total discharge. Moreover, the battery pack is so robust that it can withstand being dropped from a height of two meters onto concrete and remain fully functional. Another advantage of the Premium lithium-ion technology is the unbeatable battery runtime provided by the Bosch high-performance battery cells and the intelligent power management. The special cells with very low internal resistance and the high current capable design of the battery pack ensure low energy losses during charging and during operation. This results in extremely resilient battery packs with high performance capability. Moreover, the perfect coordination of the Bosch Hightech electronics with the motor and gearbox ensures high efficiency of the drive and optimum utilization of the power in the cells. There is also no memory effect and the batteries are fully ready for use, even if they have not been used for months.

Bosch was the first to introduce lithium-ion technology in professional cordless tools, thereby redefining the power tools market. The Premium lithium-ion technology is more than just lithium-ion technology. It is the result of continual further development, geared towards the day-to-day requirements of professional tradesmen: long battery runtime and long lifetime. The Premium lithium-ion technology is available in all voltage classes from 3.6 to 36 volts for professionals from professionals. Bosch therefore offers an optimized power tool for every application performed by professional tradesmen.

Bosch supplies the new cordless saws as standard in a carrying case with a one-hour charger and two batteries. Both tools are available at retail outlets, each at the recommended retail price of 349 euros plus VAT.

Specification	GKS 18 V-LI Professional
Battery voltage	18 V
Battery capacity	2,6 Ah
Maximum cutting depth	52 mm
Maximum cutting depth at 45 degrees	40 mm
Saw blade diameter	165 mm
Saw blade bore size	20 mm
Weight	4,1 kg

Specification	GSA 18 V-LI Professional
Battery voltage	18 V
Battery capacity	2,6 Ah
Maximum cutting length	250 mm
Stroke speed · for wood · for metal	2 700 min^-1 2 400 min^-1
Saw blade holder	SDS
Weight	3,4 kg

The Bosch Group is a leading global supplier of technology and services. In the areas of automotive and industrial technology, consumer goods, and building technology, some 271,000 associates generated sales of 46.3 billion euros in fiscal 2007. The Bosch Group comprises Robert Bosch GmbH and its more than 300 subsidiaries and regional companies in roughly 50 countries. This worldwide development, manufacturing, and sales network is the foundation for further growth. Each year, Bosch spends more than 3 billion euros for research and development, and applies for over 3,000 patents worldwide. The company was set up in Stuttgart in 1886 by Robert Bosch (1861-1942) as “Workshop for Precision Mechanics and Electrical Engineering.”

The special ownership structure of Robert Bosch GmbH guarantees the entrepreneurial freedom of the Bosch Group, making it possible for the company to plan over the long term and to undertake significant up-front investments in the safeguarding of its future. Ninety-two percent of the share capital of Robert Bosch GmbH is held by Robert Bosch Stiftung GmbH, a charitable foundation. The majority of voting rights are held by Robert Bosch Industrietreuhand KG, an industrial trust. The entrepreneurial ownership functions are carried out by the trust. The remaining shares are held by the Bosch family and by Robert Bosch GmbH.

Additional information can be accessed at www.bosch.com

Source: press release from Bosch

Using a chainsaw safely

2008-07-11T05:26:00.000-07:00

Though it's efficient and powerful, exercise caution with this tool

Despite it being a dangerous, heavy and noisy tool, a chainsaw can make quick work of felling or pruning a tree when used with caution and common sense.

Most chainsaws are heavy, oily and noisy—aside from scaring the heck out of people in movies. The power and that lethal-looking chain make some buyers wonder if the tool is inherently too dangerous to use around the house. But a chainsaw is just another power tool — and the best way to fell trees, prune limbs and cut firewood.

Chainsaws are potent tools. But modern versions incorporate many safety features not found on early models.

The most important is a chain brake, a large paddle positioned just in front of the top handle. If the saw kicks back, or you stumble, it's instinctive to put up your hand in defense. On an old saw without a chain brake, your hand hits the spinning chain. On a modern saw, your hand hits the paddle, trips the brake, and the chain instantly stops turning.

Consumers don't have more accidents with chainsaws than they do with drills and other power tools. But when accidents occur (often due to fatigue) they can be severe.

Manufacturers take this issue very seriously — and sometimes to excess in their owner's manuals. Some run 40 full-size pages with endless examples of how a complete idiot might misuse a chainsaw. Case in point: an illustration labeled "don't do," showing a guy perched precariously high in a tree — that's bad enough, but reaching back toward the trunk to cut off the branch that's supporting him. Anyone who needs that advice shouldn't be near a chainsaw — or maybe even a hammer.

True, felling trees can push the DIY envelope. But for the residential-level logging most people do (basically pruning and making firewood) there are only a few cardinal rules. If you observe them and use the tool with alertness and common sense, even a novice can handle a chainsaw safely.

•Always check chain tension before cutting, and again after the chain heats up during prolonged work. Keeping the chain well lubricated and properly tensioned on the guide bar is crucial.

•Always work in an unencumbered, sure-footed position, whenever possible standing just to the side of the saw. Should all else fail, the cutting bar should swing down and past your leg.

•Always cut wood that is stable and positioned so the cut end falls away, opening the saw kerf. Chainsaw cuts that close the kerf or bury the tip of the bar are dangerous.

Practical approaches using a chainsaw

2008-07-11T05:23:00.000-07:00

Chainsaws make a shattering amount of noise, particularly large, gas-powered machines. But with any model it's wise to wear hearing protection. You also might opt for some or all of the helmets, face guards, gripping gloves, cutting chaps, steel-capped boots and other safety gear.

It goes against most safety guidelines to say it, but there is a point of no return with safety equipment. Don a diverse collection of bulky, unfamiliar gear and you are definitely decked out to survive an accident. But you can become so encumbered and unnaturally clumsy that you're more likely to have one. For a practical balance, use safety gear that's lightweight, comfortable and does not hinder your vision or movement.

You can try out different types of gear when you check out different saws. You could buy on the Web, of course. But with chainsaws, it's smart to go hands on. For instance, most saws come with a 14- or 16-inch bar, which is all you need. A longer bar doesn't mean you're buying a more powerful saw. In fact, most saws can be fitted with longer bars if you really need to make single passes through large trees. Also bear in mind that most are sold saw-only. A case is handy. A chain scabbard is basic protection when the saw isn't running, and only $5 to $10. You'll also need a gas can, mixing oil for the fuel, and chain oil.

If you're a novice, consider shopping and buying from a chainsaw dealer who will show you the ropes. A recent experience at a Stihl chainsaw dealer proved to be just about ideal. The demonstration ran about 20 minutes and included a complete tour of the tool: how to fuel and oil the saw, use the choke and power controls for optimum starting, how to set and use the chain brake, plus the procedures of chain tensioning. The finishing touch: a few minutes outside making test cuts on some logs. If you're interested but a little short on experience or confidence, this is definitely the way to get started.

Safety Handling Chain Saw

2008-07-11T05:00:00.000-07:00

Chain saws are a popular piece of power equipment among homeowners. To help ensure their safe and efficient operation, here are six suggested steps for you to take.

Select the proper saw - A small, lightweight saw is best for cleaning up small limbs and branches. A mid-sized saw is suggested for cutting large stems or firewood. Large saws should be reserved for experienced users with demanding needs.
Wear protective attire - Chaps or pants, eye, face and ear protection, protective footwear and work gloves are essential when using a chain saw. When overhead limbs are present, a helmet should be worn.
Inspect the saw before use - Most modern saws are equipped with chain brakes, so follow the operator's manual for testing the brake before each use. Since a sharp chain provides the highest productivity and safety, ensure the chain is sharpened and tensioned correctly on the bar.
Start Safe - The safest place to start a chain saw is on the ground. Assure that the saw is sitting securely on the ground by placing your right foot in the rear handle. Nothing should obstruct the guide bar and chain. Firmly grip the front handle with your left hand and pull the rope with your right hand.
Carefully plan your cutting job - Avoid hazards like dead limbs, electric lines and roads. Maintain a safe distance from bystanders but never work alone. Evaluating the wind direction and the lean of the tree is critical in maintaining a safe working environment.
Protect yourself against "kick-back" - Kick-back is a sudden rearward motion of a chain saw caused by contact between the tip of the bar and a log or other obstruction. Kick-back can cause serious injury. A firm grip on the saw and the proper stance can reduce the risk or severity of a kick-back.

Taking the time to read your owner's manual and review all safety precautions can help you prevent accidents and reduce the risk of injuries.

Power Tool Buying Guide For Saw Blades

2008-07-07T07:31:00.000-07:00

The first thing to remember when buying a saw blade is the arbor size. The arbor is the center hole in the blade and that must match the arbor size of the saw. On any saw remember to read your owners manually to see what blade size you will need for your saw. Saw blades come in a variety of sizes, types and materials.

Type of Materials used to make blades:

Steel Blades - Good for cutting softwoods, but will dull very quickly on hardwood. Inexpensive.

High-Speed Steel (HSS) Blades - Harder than the steel blades and will stay sharp longer. A little more pricey.

Carbide Tipped Blades - More expensive than the Steel and HSS, but they stay sharp longer than both. Good for hardwood cuts.

Abrasive Blades - Abrasive material used on these blades for cutting masonry and metals.

Diamond Blades - The tips of the blades have real diamonds and will cut through glass, concrete and ceramic tile.

The saw blade does the cutting. Spend a couple dollars more and invest in a blade that will stay sharp longer and give you a better cut.

Types of Blades

Gullet is the space between the teeth of the blade

Ripping - A ripping blade has few teeth and a large gullet for good wood removal. Used for cutting with the grain of the wood and will produce a ruff cut.

Crosscutting - Has many teeth, usually more than 48 and a very small gullet. This is used to cut across the wood grain and will produce a smooth finish.

Combination - Usually has a series of four to five teeth similar to the crosscut and is divided by a very large gullet Used for cutting with the grain, against the grain and miter cuts.

Plywood - Usually has a 100 or more teeth and as the name implies is used for cutting plywood.

Hollow Ground - This blade is ground thinner into the body than the teeth to prevent binding. Used for making smooth cuts across the wood grain.

Dado - This is manufactured as stacked, one piece or two piece adjustable units. Used for cutting grooves and dados in dimensional lumber and sheets.

Thin Kerf - Used for easy cutting and will not waste as much material. This is used for cutting dimensional lumber.

Abrasive - Used for cutting tile, masonry or even steel.

Diamond - Very sturdy and strong blade used for cutting tile, concrete, glass and ceramic materials.

Learn more about power tools, see power tool reviews, visit our forums and more at http://www.professional-power-tool-guide.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eric_Griffin

Power Tool Buying Guide For Circular Saw

2008-07-07T07:23:00.000-07:00

A circular saw is a great tool and one of the most common tools in the workshop. It was invented in England back in 1780. The circular saw is also known as a buzz saw or commonly called the Skil saw, even though Skil is a manufacturer that makes circular saws. With the right blade, a circular saw is capable of cutting wood, steel, masonry and ceramic tile. Circular saws come in different sizes ranging from 3" to 16". The most common corded size is 7 1/4" and cordless is 5 3/8" & 6 1/2". There are two types of circular saws: IN-Line Saws and Worm Drive Saws.

In-Line Saw - These are the most common types of circular saws and tend to be the least expensive. In addition, they don't weigh as much as the Worm Drive saws. An In-line saw's motor sits perpendicular to the blade and a shaft runs directly from the motor to drive the blade. An In-Line saw will suit most of your applications, and except for changing the blades, they are maintenance free.

Worm Drive Saw - A worm drive is for heavy duty use and tends to cost a little more than the In-Line saws. A worm drive motor is positioned parallel with the blade and uses a gear to increase the torque transferred to the blade. These tend to be a little heavier than the in-line models. Also, worm saws are not maintenance free, you will need to occasionally add a special oil to the motor, which is nothing more than unscrewing a screw and adding the oil, it is very easy.

Circular Saw Features

Electric Brakes - This is one feature I would get, no questions asked. An electric brake stops the motor in about two seconds after releasing the trigger, while a saw without an electric brake will take about 10 to 15 seconds to stop. The electric brake works by reversing the flow of electricity to the saw motor. The reason to go with the electric brake, which most models now offer, is to save limbs and fingers. After you are cutting for a while your arm will tend to get tired, so you want to make sure your safe at all times. Stopping the blade quicker means less chances of getting hurt.

Blade Capacity - As noted above circular saws come in different blade sizes. If you are buying a corded model I would go with a 7 1/4" and for cordless, go with a 6 1/2". The larger blade models are heavier, but in the long run you will have to make less cuts, especially on angle cuts.

Shaft Locks - Make sure your saw has a lock. A Shaft lock is usually a button you press that holds the blade still, making changing the blade easier. If your buying a professional power circular saw, it should have this feature. The cheaper models usually do not have this feature.

Circular Saw Blades

A saw blade is one of the most important parts to a circular saw. Not only having the right blade is important, but also having a sharp blade is important. There are numerous blades for different jobs and below we cover the common uses. If you would like a more in depth explanation on saw blades please follow this link - Blades.

Steel Blades - Inexpensive and good for softwood. Hardwood will make steel blades dull very quickly.

Carbide Blades - Will stay sharp longer than steel blades, but more expensive.

Tile Blades - Usually have diamond tip blades and are designed especially for cutting ceramic tile.

Masonry Blades - These blades are made for cutting concrete, brick, cinder block and other masonry material. They are made of abrasive material.

What to look for when buying a circular saw

I would definitely look for a circular saw that accepts 7 1/4 blades. These are the most common blades; therefore making it easier to buy blades down the road. Also I would look for a saw with a long cord, as you would be surprised how many cords are very short. You can always add an extension cord on, but I would look for a cord that is at least 8 feet in length. Another primary item to look for is an adjustable base plate. This is good for making angle cuts and sometimes comes in very handy.

Cordless Saws - Cordless saws are nice because they have no cords to plug in, trip over or even cut through. However, they lack power. The blades tend to be smaller and therefore they do not cut as quick. Since it takes a lot of power to cut through wood, you will definitely need more than one battery as you will be recharging them often.

Corded Saws - Corded saws are more powerful, but also heavier. If you are going to be cutting a lot of wood, grab the corded model as it will save you aggravation down the road.

I currently own a cordless and corded one. I find myself using both models just about the same. It is just easier to grab the cordless one and start cutting. Most of the carpenters I know or have talked to also own both styles.

Tips on using a Circular Saw

Make sure you have the right blade for the type of material you are cutting.

Blades - Make sure your blade is sharp and not dull. Dull blades tend to heat up more which causes more wear on your tools and more chances to bind.

Set the cutting depth no more than a 1/4 inch thickness of the wood to be cut. This will help reduce the chances of kick backs.

Clamp the wood you will be cutting. This will insure a more accurate cut.

Make sure your wood is clean of nails.

Make sure your saw is up to speed before you start cutting the wood.

Don't force your saw to cut. Let the saw cut by pushing slightly into the wood and letting the saw cut.

Make sure the blade stops before you grab the wood.

Learn more about power tools, see power tool reviews, visit our forums and more at http://www.professional-power-tool-guide.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eric_Griffin

Electric chainsaw safety

2008-07-04T01:56:00.000-07:00

Electric chainsaw safety

Using a chainsaw is often seen as a hazardous activity at the best of times but if you use common sense and a few rules the chainsaw shouldn't be a dangerous tool.

Use protective clothing, etc In all circumstances you should wear a good set of gloves -- ideally specialist chainsaw gloves with a reinforced panel on the back of the hand. If you're using a chainsaw for more than a minute hearing protection should be mandatory. A hard hat should be worn and steel-toecapped boots. Leg protection (chaps or full trousers) should be worn if you plan to be cutting downwards. The Health and Safety Executive recommends that all chainsaw operators carry or wear a first aid kit, rather than relying on a first aid post some distance away. Your first aid kit should include a dressing suitable for large wounds -- chainsaw injuries aren't likely to be fixed by a plaster.

Don't put your body in the kickback arc. If the saw kicks back as it will do at some point, the tip of the chain bar will follow an arc whose centre is approximately at your left hand. If you hold the saw so that you are cutting downwards, with the blade in line with the centre of your body the tip of the blade will move towards your face if it kicks back. The way to use a chainsaw is to put the work between yourself and the blade. If you can't do that, stand well to the left of the arc.

Think about where the piece of wood will fall. Hopefully you aren't going to put any part of your body under something that will fall on you when it is cut, but you might be surprised how quick a heavy log rolls away from the trunk when it is cut. If it is possible, you should position yourself uphill from where the wood will fall.

The tree might not fall where you plan. Even if you cut the requisite hinge, there is always a chance that the tree will fall unpredictably. Practice makes perfect but the tree should be pulled in the direction you want it to fall. Generally you need ropes and pulleys for this.

Knowing the limits of your equipment should help keep you safe. And common sense will go a long way to keeping your chainsaw activity relatively safe.

Mchenry owns and runs a diy store. That sells every tool for every occasion including electric chainsaws

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=McHenry_Kay

Power Tool Buying Guide For Reciprocating Saws

2008-07-04T01:51:00.000-07:00

A cordless reciprocating saw is nice for quick jobs such as cutting a pipe under the kitchen sink, but if you are doing some serious cutting, be prepared to have a lot of batteries by your side. A cordless also lacks true cutting power.

A corded reciprocating saw will just about cut through anything you want and if you have the right machine, it won't bog down either. If your looking to buy a reciprocating saw, I would buy a corded one. Most cordless kits now come with a reciprocating saw.

Reciprocating Saw Feature

Cord - If you buy a corded version, make sure you get one that has a detachable cord. Since this tool is for destroying, most of the time you will have debris on the ground and you will be bound to cut the cord. A detachable cord is very easy to replace.

Orbital Action - Orbital action refers to the blade movement. A typical reciprocating saw moves back and forth, while an orbital saw not only moves back and forth, but it also moves up and down. Orbital action will help cut through material, except for pipe, a lot faster and easier. Make sure the tool has an adjustment that allows you to change the setting from orbital to a straight cut.

Reciprocating Saw Blades

There are two types of blades for a reciprocating saw. Metal and Wood Blades. Metal blades have more short teeth closer together and are used to cut through pipe and other metals. The wood blades have longer teeth that are spread farther apart and are used for cutting wood. Most of the time you will use a bi-metal blade. This is used for demolition, such as wood and metal. A perfect example would be cutting through a window frame. Most of it will be wood, but you will probably hit some nails or screws.

Learn more about power tools, see power tool reviews, visit our forums and more at http://www.professional-power-tool-guide.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eric_Griffin

Circular Saw: Tips and Tricks

2008-04-08T09:59:00.000-07:00

Increasing the service life

Too much feed pressure will lower the cutting performance of your saw and reduce the blade life considerably.

Sharp teeth

Cutting performance and quality depend largely on the condition and tooth shape of the saw blade. Therefore you should only use sharp blades which are suitable for the processed material. This will make working with your circular saw much easier.

Suitable blades

Suitable blades and appropriate speeds for your materials can be found in the saw blade table.

Saw blade position

The saw blade should protrude a maximum of 10 mm beyond the material to make sure
that the teeth are able to cut the material at the appropriate angle (approx. 45°).

Working with plastics

Cutting plastics such as PVC will produce long spiral chippings which can be
electrostatically charged. They could clog up the chip ejector opening and get the
pendulum guard stuck. Use dust extraction to prevent this. For your own safety you
should not introduce your fingers into the chip ejector opening!

Turn the saw on and carefully start cutting into the workpiece. If you guide it through the material steadily and without halting, the saw teeth won't clog up.

Materials containing mineral substances (lightweight building materials)

Only dry cuts are possible. Always work with a guide rail (accessory). Work with reduced speed. Always work with dust extraction whereby the vacuum cleaner should be suitable for masonry dust.

Working with (NF) metal

Only use suitable and sharp saw blades. This will ensure a clean cut and prevent
the blades from jamming in the material.

Approach the saw to the workpiece after you switch it on and start sawing gently
into it. You cut through the workpiece most effectively with little feed pressure
and without interruption.

Working with profiles

Always start cutting U-profiles on the narrow side. Never start cutting U-profiles on the open side.

Working with wood

The correct choice of saw blade depends on the wood type, the wood quality, and
the sawing direction (with or across the grain).

For your own safety you should use a suitable, external dust extraction against dangerous wood dust (chip boards, MDF plates...).

Circular Saw - Woodworking help

2008-03-05T00:46:00.000-08:00

I found a great article about circular saw.

Probably the most basic and versatile handheld power tool, in the hands of an experienced user, the circular saw can substitute for many other tools. While it takes some practice for most beginners to get comfortable with a circular saw, it quickly becomes a standby tool to handle a lot of cutting tasks very quickly. This should be the first of the power woodworking tools every beginning woodworker should consider.

A woodworker may choose to employ a circular saw for the same reasons that carpenters and building contractors have used them for years: they are powerful, portable, able to be set up to rip, crosscut and cut many non-wood materials. Here, we'll discuss the features you should look for when choosing a circular saw.

The Bigger circular saw - The Better

Circular saws come in a few different sizes (based on the diameter of the saw blade), from 4" up to the most common size, 7-1/4". They also are typically rated by horsepower and/or RPMs of the saw blade.

When choosing a circular saw, a good rule of thumb is to buy one that has higher horsepower than other models of the same size. While a 1-HP 7-1/4" circular saw would probably be adequate, I like models that are at least two horsepower, as they are less likely to bind when under a load.

Circular Saw Adjustments

Circular Saws have controls for adjusting the depth of the cut (from zero to about 2-3/8" on a typical 7-1/4" model) and the bevel of the cut (the saw blade can be beveled from zero to 45-degrees). Check to see that these controls are easy to adjust and can be firmly tightened to hold the depth or angle. Some models use relatively large, lever-type controls where others employ little more than a wing nut.

Safely using circular saw

Circular Saws all have some basic safety features. Check to see that the saw you're considering has a safety switch, which must be held before the trigger can be depressed. There should also be a blade guard that moves easily when pushing the saw through wood, but springs back into place when the saw is away from the stock.

As with all tools, circular saws can be very dangerous if not used properly. Always read, understand and follow the safety instructions that come with the saw.

Additional circular saw Features

Better quality saws employ additional features such as an anti-locking clutch, which are flanges on either side of the blade that will allow the blade to slip if the blade binds on the stock, to protect the motor and drive mechanism. Another useful feature is a blade lock, which locks the drive spindle in place, making it easier to change the saw blade.

A.C. Power VS Battery-Powered Saws

A recent advancement in circular saws is battery operated, 4-inch blade models. These are wonderful for small cutting operations, such as paneling or 1/4-inch plywood. They're lightweight and perfect when you need to reach high to make a cut. However, they're lacking in horsepower, and aren't much use for cutting more than a just a few 2x4s. I would definitely recommend having one of these battery-operated units on hand, but not until you have a number of other tools in your arsenal.

Read in original

Chain Saw Safety

2008-03-04T09:23:00.000-08:00

The importance of chain saw safety to woodcutting professionals is evidenced by the fact that practically every article in our special chain saw section makes some mention of this life-and-limb-saving topic. But to emphasize it even more (can safety ever be overemphasized?), we ware t,, kick thingsoff with a brief discussion of the basics of safe chain save use. The rest is up to you.

More and more people-especially those trying to achieve some measure of independence from the energy brokers-are discovering the usefulness of the modern lightweight chain saw for outdoor tasks ranging from cutting fuel for the family woodstove to clearing woodland tangles for a new garden patch. But this valuable power tool can be-is-dangerous if not used properly and treated with informed respect. According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, some 69,423 Americans were injured seriously enough in chain saw accidents in 1982 to be treated in hospital emergency rooms. Of those seen in ER's, 2,221 were hurt badly enough to be admitted to the hospital ...and 139 were pronounced dead on arrival.

Alarming statistics? You bet. But worse yet is the fact that the majority of those mishaps and fatalities could easily have been prevented, since they were caused by lack of familiarity with the equipment or careless operation of it.

I have long been convinced that almost all chain saw accidents could be avoided if operators would adhere to a few commonsense safety rules. And to help that conviction become a reality, I've drawn up a list of basic chain sawing do's and don'ts for woodcutters who, like me, have no intention of ever becoming accident statistics.

CHAIN SAW DO'S

*When shopping for new chain saws or accessories, consider those with built-in safety features such as automatic chain brakes, bar-tip guards, antikickback guide bars, antikickback chains, and hand guards.

*Read your owner's manual carefully, reviewing it before each woodcutting season to familiarize yourself with your saw and its proper and safe operation.

*Keep your chain saw in perfect working order; a sharp chain and well-maintained saw make safe operation more certain.

*Adjust the chain tension frequently; a loose chain can fly off the guide bar.

*Make sure that observers and helpers stay clear of the work area. (Very young "helpers" are especially vulnerable to injury.)

*Be certain that the chain stops turning when the throttle is released. Over 15°70 of all injuries are due to chains that don't stop when they're supposed to. (You can probably correct this problem by adjusting the idle speed.)

*Be careful when fueling your saw ...allow the machine to cool before adding gasoline, and wait for a better time and place to have a smoke.

*Be cautious about shock when using electric chain saws. Machines that aren't double-insulated must be used only with proper threewire extension cords and threeprong receptacles.

CHAIN SAW DON'TS

*Never carry a running saw. It takes only a moment to start it again when you reach vour new working area.

*Never place a running `.'.P saw on the it, ,1,:1!11 walk away from ; *To avoid kickback, never allow the tip of the guide bar to coma. anything.

*Never allow anyone to use a chain saw who isn't fair. familiar with its proper operation.

*Never work alone; if you're injured, you'll need help

*Don't fell large trees on a windy day.

*Never cut with your chain saw held above waist height, t-( won't be able to control kickback.

*Never use a chain saw when you're tired; fatigue can cause t1-slowness and the sloppiness that often precede loss of control o, .! accidents.

*Don't use a chain saw (or any other machinery or tools, for that matter) if you've been drinking or have used any drugs that can cat(., drowsiness. One slip in concentration can lead to a trip to the em,, gency ward.

*Never start your chain saw until you've donned the proper sate clothing: heavy leather gloves, heavy leather boots (preferably steel toed), long pants, long-sleeved shirt (with cuffs buttoned and t;: tucked in), and eye and ear protection. Professional chain sawyers further cut their risks by wearing a leather apron or chaps and a construction worker's hard hat (or one of the new helmet/ear and e_. protection units).

*Never stand directly behind your saw. Rather, stand off to the left side so that if the bar kicks up it won't be directly in linc with your chest and head.

*Don't allow your left elbow to bend while you're sawing; if your machine tries to kick up, you'll need all the straight-arm power you can muster in order to control it.

*Never allow legs or feet (yours or anyone else's) to get beneath. what you're sawing.

For more information on the safe and sane operation of one of the most useful-and potentially dangerous-outdoor power tools we have today, give the accompanying illustrations a good look-see.

Source : http://www.motherearthnews.com

New lightweight and powerful Bosch jigsaw

2008-02-25T09:58:00.000-08:00

Lightweight and powerful, the new JS5 Orbital Jigsaw from Bosch Power Tools and Accessories is the ideal option for woodworkers, remodelers, serious DIYers and others who are ready to move up to a pro-caliber jigsaw.

Long known for industry-leading innovation and performance in the jigsaw category, Bosch’s latest offering delivers both without breaking the bank. For example, Bosch’s exclusive One Touch™ blade change system enables one-handed blade changes. This feature provides quick and easy blade changes during any project.

The variable speed dial allows users to precisely control the saw’s 5.7 amps of power and match speed of cut (500-3,100 SPM) for a smooth and quality finish on their workpiece. Users can even adjust the type of cut – from smooth to aggressive – simply by using the saw’s 4-position orbital action feature and choosing the appropriate blade.

The Bosch JS5 offers top-notch comfort and control, thanks to a counterbalanced drive system that minimizes vibration and a soft-grip handle and body that reduce user fatigue. Visibility is maximized by an adjustable dust blower, designed to keep sight lines clear during use. The lightweight JS5 barely tips the scales at five pounds.

The Bosch JS5 Orbital Jigsaw comes complete with a rugged carrying bag, blade, anti-splinter insert and an Allen wrench. The saw is covered by a one year warranty. It is now available through authorized Bosch distributors nationwide, and retails for $109.00. To find out more, users may visit www.boschtools.com or call 877-BOSCH-99.

Links:
Press release

Chain Saws

2008-02-22T02:57:00.000-08:00

In 1925, the German company Stihl invented the world's first electric chain saws. Two years later, another German company, Dolmar, experienced first gas-powered saw. Since that time, life as a professional tree fellers, and the "business owners" country houses has improved. After all, who with the same speed and dexterity can cope with a sawing logs for the terraces, and the harvesting of firewood for the fireplace? Only she, chain saws.

Any house, as is well known, begins with the workpiece material. And without material is not any building? Of course, without the wood. Wooden detail can be found even in a stone cottage. If the floors, windows, floors and skirting and not smell the resin, the erection of the house at the time still used wooden rafters. But is the home of a single plot out alive? Various tools holders and, finally, children's sand is not made of wood most often made. Logs, piles, slabs - all large wood construction and decoration products "Chain Saw" cuts and polished with ease. Not resting it and after construction: you have to saw firewood for the fireplace - no problems, too many patients and branch into apple orchard cut – please. I keep it anywhere. And everywhere chain saw is on the first place.

Band saws 101

2008-02-20T10:03:00.001-08:00

When looking to cut precise curves in wood, in most cases there is no better tool to choose than the band saw. That being said, a quality band saw will do a lot more than just cut curves. They are great for cutting tenons and some smaller rabbets, for ripping small pieces of stock and for resawing thin strips from larger pieces of wood.

With all the different band saw types, sizes and options available, how do you know which band saw is right for you?

Types of Band Saws: There are two main types of band saws, floor-standing cabinet models, and units that are shorter, for mounting either on a dedicated stand or on a bench top. Cabinet models are typically built for professional use, whereas the smaller units are better suited for the home-based woodworker. The cabinet models have have more features and larger motors, and usually feature a stronger frame which leads to more consistent cutting. That isn't to say, however, that one cannot get professional results from a bench-mounted band saw.

Main Features: The two main things to consider when choosing a band saw are the depth of cut and the throat. The saw's depth of cut is the distance from the table to the upper blade guides. Many band saws are marketed on this feature alone, which tells the prospective buyer how thick of stock can be cut using the band saw. However, some saws that have only a six-inch depth of cut can have an optional riser added to the unit which extends the depth from six inches to twelve. This allows some less expensive saws to be able to cut thicker stock, particularly when resawing.

The throat is the distance from the blade to the vertical frame section of the body of the saw. This distance determines the width of cut that can be completed on the band saw. The throat on a free-standing cabinet band saw typically exceeds the 12 to 14-inch throat of smaller, bench-top models. When you see the term "18-inch Band Saw" advertised, realize that it is the throat measurement to which the manufacturer is referring.

Size of Motors: Another consideration is the size of the band saw's motor. Most home-level models incorporate a 3/4 to 1 horsepower motor, whereas professional models will have larger motors with variable speeds. For woodworkers, the variable speed won't really matter, as slower than max speeds should be incorporated when cutting metals and some hard plastics.

Additional Features to Consider: Every band saw should have a cast-iron, steel or aluminum alloy table which tilts up to 45-degrees for angled cuts. The table will typically be about 16-inches in both width and length, equipped with a miter track. Look for band wheels that have tires with cleaning brushes to keep the wheels clean. Look also for a unit with a built-in dust collection port, for connecting to your shop vacuum.

Two very useful options that you should add to your band saw (if it doesn't come already equipped) are a rip fence and a miter gauge. These two add-ons will prove very useful when ripping, resawing and cross cutting.

Set-Up: When setting up your band saw, read the instructions that accompany the unit very carefully. There are numerous fine adjustments which are necessary for the band saw to cut properly. Failure to follow these instructions, which include setting the blade tension and adjusting the blade guides, thrust bearing and side bearings, will decrease the performance of the saw and make blades much more likely to break.

Not only will the owner's manual help you set up your saw properly, it will help you become much more familiar with the proper methods for safely cutting with your saw. A band saw is among the safest of power woodworking tools, but the saw is must be set up properly before use. A band saw is a fun tool to work with, but only if used correctly.

Bandsaw Template Sawing

2008-02-20T10:00:00.000-08:00

The fastest way to reproduce identical parts is with a machine guided by a template. Most woodworkers are familiar with the technique as it applies to a router: A bearing, which is fastened to the end of a router bit, runs around the edge of a template fastened to the workpiece. The template is then fastened to the next workpiece, and the process is repeated. All pieces, whether there are 6 or 600, are exact copies because the same template is used to guide the router.

This concept can be applied to a bandsaw for reproducing curves. Rather than drawing the design on the stock and care fully sawing to the line, a template is attached to the stock and the cut is guided by a stick that is secured to the table adjacent to the blade (see the drawing above). This permits you to saw faster because you don’t have to concentrate on following the layout line. Instead of following the line, you simply push the stock past the blade while maintaining contact between the template and the guide.

Bandsawing with a template is definitely a fast way to produce any number of curved parts. But the technique does have a major shortcoming: You can’t saw inside corners. In fact, the technique is most beneficial for bandsawing large, sweeping curves such as chair rockers.

Also, because making an accurate template may consume a considerable amount of time, the benefit gained by sawing with a template may not outweigh the cost. Nevertheless, bandsawing with a template can be a quick, accurate method for producing large quantities of certain types of work

For a template, you’ll want to use a material that is stiff, strong, and easy to work I’ve found that a high-quality ply wood is ideal. Inexpensive plywood isn’t suitable because it typically isn’t flat and it has voids in the core between the veneer layers. Consequently, the guide will catch in the voids and spoil the workpiece.

Making a template is much like making a pattern: You simply draw the design and carefully cut it out. It’s also important to sand or otherwise smooth away any irregularities. If you don’t take time to smooth away errors, they will be duplicated in any work for which the template is used.

The guide is simply a stick that extends from the blade of the bandsaw to the edge of the table. The business end of the stick, near the blade, is notched to fit around the blade. It’s also convex in shape to easily follow the curves of the template. The other end of the stick clamps firmly to the table edge.

With the setup complete, the actual sawing becomes the easiest part of the job. As you’re sawing, always keep the template positioned against the guide.

Securing a Template You can attach a template to your workpiece in a number of ways. My favorite method is to tack the template to the stock with small brads. If you allow the heads to protrude, it’s much easier to pull the brads out again. Obviously, you don’t want to use brads if the holes will show in the finished work, but typically you can position the brads in an area where they won’t be seen or where the offending holes in the stock will later be removed during joinery and construction.

Another option for securing a template to a workpiece is to use double-sided tape. The cloth tape used by woodturners is strong and readily available from many woodworking supply catalogs. I’m not a fan of this tape because the application is so slow it can often negate any benefits of template sawing.

A third option is to construct a jig that includes the template profile plus toggle clamps to secure the work. Toggle clamps are quick to operate and are ideal for most jig clamping situations. Because constructing the jig takes time, I reserve this method for parts that I reproduce often.

Make the template a little long I make the template approximately ½ in. longer than the stock so that the tem plate contacts the guide before the work reaches the blade. This ensures a safe, accurate start to the cut.

This article is excerpted from The Bandsaw Book written by Lonnie Bird and ©1999 by Lonnie Bird and The Taunton Press.

Tuning a Band Saw

2008-02-20T09:59:00.001-08:00

Unplug bandsaw when installing and centering blade.

Adjust tilt of top wheel so blade is running dead center on the wheels, spin the top wheel by hand to check.

The tension should be just enough to prevent slipping on the wheels but not enough to stretch the blade, the wider the blade the more tension required. If there is too little tension the blade will not cut straight, increase a bit at a time until you feel you can control the cut. Some inexpensive or damaged blades will wander no matter what you do.

Set guide blocks to miss the teeth but support the rest of the blade. Wrap a single layer of 24# paper around the blade to set the side clearance.

The back up roller should be set so it does not turn when idling but will support the blade when cutting.

Condition the back of the blade, with the blade running hold a sharpening stone against the back corners of the blade to round them off, this will allow you to cut sharper corners with less binding.

Check if table is set square to blade, otherwise your cut will not be 90 degrees.

Set fence to blade, most band saws do not cut parallel to edge of table so the fence has to be adjusted accordingly. Mark a line about 3" from and parallel to the straight edge of a 12" square scrap of plywood, make a cut into plywood following the line for about six inches. Stop the saw, keeping the plywood in the position it was in while making the cut. Align the fence to the straight edge of the plywood.

There are many variables when setting a band saw, each blade will have its own characteristics, often you may find that you have to go back and tweak some of the previous settings again as you go through the procedure. It can be a time consuming exercise, but well worth it in the long run.

Types of saws

2008-02-18T01:01:00.001-08:00

There are a number of different categories of saw, all with the same purpose of accurately making larger pieces of material into smaller pieces of material. The first and largest division is between hand-powered saws and mechanically powered saws.

Note that the names used for different types of saw are by no means universal. Names have changed over time and even today the same name may be used for different kinds of saws in different parts of the world or by different manufacturers. Also, the same saw may be referred to by different names.

Hand saws

Hand-powered saws fall into three divisions, which are defined by the way they hold the blade stiff (a requirement to get an even, clean cut).

A Hand saw uses either simply a blade thick enough to be stiff, or cuts on the pull stroke which reduces the stiffness requirement. This division includes the following specific types of saws:

Crosscut saw, for making cuts perpendicular to the grain
Rip saw, for cutting along the grain

Two-man saw, for cutting large logs or trees
Plywood saw, fine-toothed blade to reduce tearing of plywood
Veneer saw, two edged saw with fine teeth used to cut veneer
Hacksaw, fine-toothed tempered blade under tension for cutting metal, bone, and other hard materials.

Although their use is dwindling the jigsaw and sabre saw (unpowered tools) may also refer to blade style saws.

Back saws

The second category of hand saws keep a thinner blade stiff by reinforcing it with a steel or brass back. Back saws are differentiated by length of blade. While this list is not definitive, they are generally named, from longest to shortest: Mitre Saw, Tenon saw', "Sash saw", "carcase saw" and Dovetail saw. These saws also have a handle that is vertical in relation to the blade. A saw with a straight handle that extends from the top back of the blade is referred to as a Gent's saw. Finally, some Dozuki saws, which are an Eastern-style (cut on the pull stroke) saw have backs and are classified as back-saws and a tenon saw.

One type of hand powered Miter saw (makes precisely angled cross cuts) uses a backsaw.

Mechanically powered saws

Portable sawmill

Mechanically powered saws mechanically move the teeth past the wood while the saw itself is held stationary. This is accomplished in one of three ways: the teeth are along the perimeter of a flat, circular blade; the blade reciprocates up and down rapidly; or the teeth are along one edge of a continuous band. They are more specifically differentiated as follows:

Circular blade saws

Circular saw, machine-driven for industrial sawing of log and beams, typically found in sawmills - also name given to smaller hand-held saws
Table saw, circular blade rises through a slot in a table. It is the most common piece of stationary woodworking equipment. The smaller direct-drive versions that can be set on a workbench are called workbench saws. Smaller belt-driven ones generally set on steel legs are often called Contractor's Saws. The heavier, more precise and more powerful, often driven by multiple belts, with an enclosed base stand as an integral part of the saw are called Cabinet saws. A relatively new version, called a hybrid saw, has the lighter weight mechanism of a Contractor saw but with an enclosed base like the Cabinet saw.
Radial arm saw, versatile machine used mainly for cross-cutting where the blade is pulled on a guide arm through a piece of wood held stationary on the saw's table
Rotary saw, for making accurate cuts without the need for a pilot hole in wallboard, plywood, and other thin materials, also called a spiral cut saw or a "RotoZip". The latter is a trademark owned by Bosch Tool Corp. who pioneered this type of saw - design is similar to a small wood router, bits are similar to a twist drill, some cut on the upward twist, some cut downwards
Electric miter saw, (also called chop saw, cut-off saw or power miter box) – for making accurate cross cuts and miter cuts. The basic model has its circular blade fixed at a 90° angle to the vertical, a compound miter saw's blade can be adjusted to other angles. A sliding compound miter saw has a blade which can be pulled through the work similar to the action of a radial arm saw, which gives a greater capacity for cutting wider workpieces.
Concrete saw, usually powered by an internal combustion engine and used with a Diamond Blade to cut concrete or asphalt pavement.
Abrasive saw, which uses an abrasive disc for cutting rather than a toothed blade. Abrasive saws are used for cutting very hard materials, such as metal.

Reciprocating blade saws

Electric hacksaw

Jigsaw or saber saw (mainly US), narrow blade for cutting irregular shapes, typically held in one hand with the barrel perpendicular to the saw blade. Historically, the term jigsaw was also commonly used for what is now usually called a scroll saw.
Reciprocating saw or sabre saw (mainly UK and Australia), action similar to a jigsaw, but much larger, more powerful and with a longer stroke with the blade parallel to the barrel. Normally held in both hands, useful for demolition work or for cutting pipe. Sometimes powered by compressed air.
Scroll saw, saw for making intricate curved cuts (scrolls), the first of which were pedal powered. Traditionally called a jigsaw.
Dragsaw, internal combustion powered saw used for bucking logs before the advent of the chainsaw.
Sternal saw, used in surgery to open a patient's sternum.

Continuous band

Band saw, with motor-driven continuous band
Chainsaw, motor-driven, for felling trees

Saw terminology

2008-02-15T04:38:00.000-08:00

Heel: The end closest to the handle.
Toe: The end farthest from the handle.
Front: The side with the teeth (the "bottom edge").
Back: Opposite the front ("top edge").
Teeth: Small sharp points along the cutting side of the saw.
Gullet: Valley between the points of the teeth
Fleam: The angle of the faces of the teeth relative to a line perpendicular to the face of the saw.
Rake: The angle of the front face of the tooth relative to a line perpendicular to the length of the saw. Teeth designed to cut with the grain (ripping) are generally steeper than teeth designed to cut across the grain (crosscutting)
Points per inch (25 mm): The most common measurement of the frequency of teeth on a saw blade. This is measured by setting the tip, or point, of one tooth at the zero point on a ruler, and then counting how many points are contained within one inch (25 mm) of length, counting inclusively. There will always be one more point per inch than there are teeth per inch (e.g., a saw with 14 points per inch will have 13 teeth per inch, a saw with 10 points per inch will have 9 teeth per inch). Some saws do not have the same number of teeth per inch throughout their entire length, but the vast majority do.
Teeth Per inch : Another common measurement of the amount of teeth residing in any one inch length of a saw blade. Usually abbreviated as TPI, eg a blade consisting of 18TPI (Teeth Per Inch).
Kerf: Width of the saw cut. On most saws the kerf is wider than the saw blade because the teeth are flared out sideways (set). This allows the blade to move through the cut easily without getting stuck (binding). However, some saws are made so that the teeth have no set on one side. This is done so that the saw can lie flat on a surface and cut along the surface without scratching it. These are referred to as flush cutting saws. The term kerf is often used to mean the width of the saw blade. However it is the width of the cut so it is the width of the blade plus any wobble created during cutting plus any material pulled out of the sides of the cut. This distinction can be extremely important. If you try to use a blade that is too thin you can get excessive wobble and actually get a wider kerf.

A saw is a cutting tool

2008-02-14T08:07:00.000-08:00

A saw is a cutting tool that uses a hard blade or wire with an abrasive edge to cut through softer materials. The cutting edge of a saw is either a serrated blade or an abrasive. A saw may be worked by hand, or powered by steam, water, electric or other power.

In a modern serrated saw, each tooth is bent to a precise angle called its "set". The set of the teeth is determined by the kind of cut the saw is intended to make. For example a "rip saw" has a tooth set that is similar to the angle used on a chisel. The idea is to have the teeth rip or tear the material apart. Some teeth are usually splayed slightly to each side the blade, so that the cut width (kerf) is wider than than the blade itself and the blade does not bind in the cut.

An abrasive saw uses an abrasive disc or band for cutting, rather than a serrated blade.

According to Chinese tradition, the saw was invented by Lu Ban. In Greek mythology, Perdix, the nephew of Daedalos, invented the saw. Historically, however, saws date back to prehistory, and likely evolved from Neolithic tools or bone tools.

References: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saw